The Refined Frite

“The fry at The Refined Frite does not call attention to itself. It does not need to. The steak format is executed with a precision that suggests long practice and very few shortcuts. The crispness is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The potato flavor is earnest and specific. One finds, upon reflection, that the fries were the correct decision.”

“There are establishments in Hell's Kitchen that treat the fry as a supporting player. The Refined Frite is not among them. The steak format is ambitious. The beef tallow is appropriate. The crispness is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The potato announces itself earnest and specific. The portion is forthcoming. This guide takes no position on portion size as a moral category. The fries are recommended. One proceeds. One is glad one did.”