Simone Vanthorpe's Brasserie

“The fry at Simone Vanthorpe's Brasserie does not arrive unannounced. Its aroma precedes it through the dining room with the confidence of someone who has reserved well in advance. The wedge cut is executed with precision. The double-fried exterior is aspirational. The interior presents a potato present as a rumor. The grease does not call attention to itself, which is what one hopes for from grease. A return visit is, at this point, a formality. One will perform it nonetheless.”

“The crispness of the wedge fry at Simone Vanthorpe's Brasserie is aspirational. This is noted first because it is noted first. The interior potato character is present as a rumor. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. First impressions, in the case of the french fry, are usually correct. This one is. Best ordered without accompaniment. The fry requires no defense counsel.”

“The fry at Simone Vanthorpe's Brasserie does not call attention to itself. It does not need to. The wedge format is executed with a precision that suggests long practice and very few shortcuts. The crispness is aspirational. The potato flavor is present as a rumor. One finds, upon reflection, that the fries were the correct decision. The address is committed to memory.”