Ricci's Concern

“On a Tuesday evening in Prospect Heights, one discovers that Ricci's Concern has opinions about potatoes. The steak format is a declaration. The triple-fried exterior is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The interior communicates the potato's agricultural origins — present as a rumor. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. These opinions are, on balance, correct. In the final accounting, the fries are the only item that matters. Ricci's Concern knows this.”

“The steak fry at Ricci's Concern has the quality of inevitability. One arrives, one orders, one encounters the crispness (adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition), the potato (present as a rumor), the grease (conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative). One had not known, before this moment, that inevitability was available at this address. One knows now. One returns.”