Wyndham

“The waffle fry at Wyndham does not overstay its welcome. The exterior is aspirational, the interior is present as a rumor, and the grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The portion is precise to the point of intimacy. In a city of considerable excess, restraint is, when correctly applied, its own form of indulgence. Wyndham applies it correctly. In the final accounting, the fries are the only item that matters. Wyndham knows this.”

“Wyndham occupies a modest address in SoHo. The fries are, in contrast, not modest. The waffle format is executed in sunflower, triple-fried to a finish that is aspirational. The interior is present as a rumor. The portion is precise to the point of intimacy. One adjusts one's expectations upward upon arrival and finds, upon departure, that they were still insufficient. The neighborhood offers alternatives. One should not investigate them.”