The Exemplary Crisp

“The Exemplary Crisp occupies a modest address in Crown Heights. The fries are, in contrast, not modest. The matchstick format is executed in peanut, double-fried to a finish that is commendable and largely sustained. The interior is earnest and specific. The portion is forthcoming. One adjusts one's expectations upward upon arrival and finds, upon departure, that they were still insufficient. In the final accounting, the fries are the only item that matters. The Exemplary Crisp knows this.”

“There is a school of thought that holds that a great french fry requires no accompaniment. The Exemplary Crisp belongs to this school. The matchstick fry, double-fried in peanut, makes its argument in silence. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato flavor is earnest and specific. The argument is persuasive. The fry asks only to be appreciated. At The Exemplary Crisp, one appreciates.”