Vivienne Sullivan's Table

“At Vivienne Sullivan's Table, the shoestring fry is taken seriously in a way that does not announce itself. The double-fry method produces an exterior that is aspirational. The interior is present and largely coherent. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The seriousness, once recognized, is irreversible. One proceeds. One is glad one did.”

“A kitchen that double-fries in lard has made a commitment. At Vivienne Sullivan's Table, this commitment is honored. The shoestring fry arrives crisp — aspirational — and present and largely coherent within. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The portion is forthcoming. Commitments, when honored, tend to produce results. One finds, upon reflection, that the fries were the correct decision.”