The Exemplary Chip

“The crinkle fry at The Exemplary Chip has the quality of inevitability. One arrives, one orders, one encounters the crispness (adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition), the potato (present as a rumor), the grease (conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative). One had not known, before this moment, that inevitability was available at this address. One knows now. The fry alone merits the journey to Upper East Side.”

“The Exemplary Chip occupies a modest address in Upper East Side. The fries are, in contrast, not modest. The crinkle format is executed in canola, triple-fried to a finish that is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The interior is present as a rumor. The portion is forthcoming. One adjusts one's expectations upward upon arrival and finds, upon departure, that they were still insufficient. One visits twice. The second visit confirms the first.”

“A kitchen that triple-fries in canola has made a commitment. At The Exemplary Chip, this commitment is honored. The crinkle fry arrives crisp — adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition — and present as a rumor within. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The portion is forthcoming. Commitments, when honored, tend to produce results. One returns.”