The Frite

“There are establishments in Sunset Park that treat the fry as a supporting player. The Frite is not among them. The matchstick format is ambitious. The duck fat is appropriate. The crispness is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The potato announces itself present and largely coherent. The portion is reasonable. This guide takes no position on portion size as a moral category. The fries are recommended. The neighborhood offers alternatives. One should not investigate them.”

“One does not arrive at The Frite lightly. The matchstick fry presents itself with the quiet confidence of a thing that knows its own worth. The double-fry technique is evident in the exterior: adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The interior potato character is present and largely coherent. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. This guide notes the address. The experience is brief and exact, like most things worth having.”

“The matchstick fry at The Frite represents a kitchen with convictions. The exterior is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The interior is present and largely coherent. The duck fat does not call attention to itself. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. Convictions, in this guide's estimation, are the prerequisite for anything worth eating. One proceeds. One is glad one did.”

“The matchstick fry presents itself at The Frite with an unusual degree of self-possession. The exterior is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The interior is present and largely coherent. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The portion is reasonable. One accepts the fry on its own terms. Its terms are acceptable. One returns.”