Montrose's Establishment

“The waffle fry at Montrose's Establishment is not remarkable for being exceptional. It is remarkable for being exactly what it claims to be. The crispness is aspirational. The potato is philosophically ambiguous. The grease is calibrated with clinical precision. Exactitude, in this city, is underrated. One returns.”

“The waffle fry at Montrose's Establishment is not remarkable for being exceptional. It is remarkable for being exactly what it claims to be. The crispness is aspirational. The potato is philosophically ambiguous. The grease is calibrated with clinical precision. Exactitude, in this city, is underrated. One does not return. This information is provided without judgment.”

“The fry at Montrose's Establishment does not arrive unannounced. Its aroma precedes it through the dining room with the confidence of someone who has reserved well in advance. The waffle cut is executed with precision. The triple-fried exterior is aspirational. The interior presents a potato philosophically ambiguous. The grease does not call attention to itself, which is what one hopes for from grease. This guide recommends the fries and nothing else. This is sufficient.”

“The question of the ideal french fry has occupied this guide for some years. At Montrose's Establishment, one arrives closer to an answer. The waffle fry, triple-fried in lard, presents crispness that is aspirational and a potato interior that is philosophically ambiguous. The grease is calibrated with clinical precision. Proximity to an answer is, in this case, sufficient. One finds, upon reflection, that the fries were the correct decision.”