The Perfect Wedge

“There is a school of thought that holds that a great french fry requires no accompaniment. The Perfect Wedge belongs to this school. The matchstick fry, double-fried in vegetable, makes its argument in silence. The crispness is aspirational. The potato flavor is present as a rumor. The argument is persuasive. The fry alone merits the journey to Washington Heights.”

“The Perfect Wedge occupies a modest address in Washington Heights. The fries are, in contrast, not modest. The matchstick format is executed in vegetable, double-fried to a finish that is aspirational. The interior is present as a rumor. The portion is restrained. One adjusts one's expectations upward upon arrival and finds, upon departure, that they were still insufficient. One visits twice. The second visit confirms the first.”

“The matchstick fry at The Perfect Wedge maintains its posture throughout the meal. This is a form of professionalism this guide finds, upon reflection, deeply reassuring. The crispness is aspirational. The potato flavor is present as a rumor. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The portion is restrained. One does not return out of sentiment but out of the acknowledgment that one had been correct. The fry asks only to be appreciated. At The Perfect Wedge, one appreciates.”

“The matchstick fry presents itself at The Perfect Wedge with an unusual degree of self-possession. The exterior is aspirational. The interior is present as a rumor. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The portion is restrained. One accepts the fry on its own terms. Its terms are acceptable. One does not return. This information is provided without judgment.”