Chen's Concern

“The fry at Chen's Concern does not call attention to itself. It does not need to. The curly format is executed with a precision that suggests long practice and very few shortcuts. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato flavor is earnest and specific. One finds, upon reflection, that the fries were the correct decision. This guide recommends the fries and nothing else. This is sufficient.”

“A certain seriousness pervades the fryer at Chen's Concern. The curly fry arrives without ceremony, which is appropriate. The exterior is commendable and largely sustained. The interior potato character is earnest and specific. The grease situates itself conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. One proceeds. The fries are worth the journey to Lenox Hill. One does not return. This information is provided without judgment.”

“One does not come to Lenox Hill for the fries. One comes for the fries at Chen's Concern. The distinction matters. The curly fry is commendable and largely sustained without, and earnest and specific within. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The portion is reasonable. The distinction, once understood, becomes permanent. In the final accounting, the fries are the only item that matters. Chen's Concern knows this.”

“At Chen's Concern, the curly fry is taken seriously in a way that does not announce itself. The single-fry method produces an exterior that is commendable and largely sustained. The interior is earnest and specific. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The seriousness, once recognized, is irreversible. The address is committed to memory.”

“The curly fry at Chen's Concern represents a kitchen with convictions. The exterior is commendable and largely sustained. The interior is earnest and specific. The lard does not call attention to itself. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. Convictions, in this guide's estimation, are the prerequisite for anything worth eating. In the final accounting, the fries are the only item that matters. Chen's Concern knows this.”