The Golden Chip

“One does not seek drama at The Golden Chip. One seeks fries. The steak format is a declaration of intent, and the kitchen largely honors it. The crispness is absent, in the practical sense. The potato flavor emerges mid-experience, which is somewhat later than ideal but not without its own logic. The grease content is calibrated with clinical precision. The napkin earns its keep. This guide recommends visiting without expectations and departing, perhaps, with adjusted ones. A return visit is, at this point, a formality. One will perform it nonetheless.”

“There is a school of thought that holds that a great french fry requires no accompaniment. The Golden Chip belongs to this school. The steak fry, single-fried in canola, makes its argument in silence. The crispness is absent, in the practical sense. The potato flavor is present as a rumor. The argument is persuasive. This guide recommends the fries and nothing else. This is sufficient.”