Carmichael's Table

“The steak fry at Carmichael's Table does not apologize for existing. This is, as it turns out, the correct posture. The crispness is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The potato interior is present and largely coherent. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. One admires the lack of apology and returns to express this admiration. The fry asks only to be appreciated. At Carmichael's Table, one appreciates.”

“The steak fry at Carmichael's Table maintains its posture throughout the meal. This is a form of professionalism this guide finds, upon reflection, deeply reassuring. The crispness is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The potato flavor is present and largely coherent. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The portion is reasonable. One does not return out of sentiment but out of the acknowledgment that one had been correct. The experience is brief and exact, like most things worth having.”

“A kitchen that double-fries in vegetable has made a commitment. At Carmichael's Table, this commitment is honored. The steak fry arrives crisp — adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition — and present and largely coherent within. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The portion is reasonable. Commitments, when honored, tend to produce results. One visits twice. The second visit confirms the first.”

“In a city of approximately eight million opinions about french fries, Carmichael's Table has one of its own. The steak fry is double-fried in vegetable. The crispness is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The potato flavor is present and largely coherent. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The portion is reasonable. One visits once and thereafter considers the matter settled. One does not return. This information is provided without judgment.”

“The steak fry at Carmichael's Table has the quality of inevitability. One arrives, one orders, one encounters the crispness (adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition), the potato (present and largely coherent), the grease (generous in the manner of a host who means it). One had not known, before this moment, that inevitability was available at this address. One knows now. The address is committed to memory.”