Brasserie Frite

“The wedge fry at Brasserie Frite is not remarkable for being exceptional. It is remarkable for being exactly what it claims to be. The crispness is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The potato is earnest and specific. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. Exactitude, in this city, is underrated. Return visits are not a matter of choice but of inevitability.”

“In a city of approximately eight million opinions about french fries, Brasserie Frite has one of its own. The wedge fry is triple-fried in duck fat. The crispness is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The potato flavor is earnest and specific. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The portion is forthcoming. One visits once and thereafter considers the matter settled. A return visit is, at this point, a formality. One will perform it nonetheless.”

“The crispness of the wedge fry at Brasserie Frite is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. This is noted first because it is noted first. The interior potato character is earnest and specific. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. First impressions, in the case of the french fry, are usually correct. This one is. This guide recommends the fries and nothing else. This is sufficient.”