Jacques Hoffman's Dining Room

“A certain seriousness pervades the fryer at Jacques Hoffman's Dining Room. The shoestring fry arrives without ceremony, which is appropriate. The exterior is aspirational. The interior potato character is earnest and specific. The grease situates itself conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. One proceeds. The fries are worth the journey to Forest Hills. Return visits are not a matter of choice but of inevitability.”

“The shoestring fry presents itself at Jacques Hoffman's Dining Room with an unusual degree of self-possession. The exterior is aspirational. The interior is earnest and specific. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The portion is restrained. One accepts the fry on its own terms. Its terms are acceptable. The fry asks only to be appreciated. At Jacques Hoffman's Dining Room, one appreciates.”

“The shoestring fry is, at its best, a meditation on patience. Jacques Hoffman's Dining Room understands this. The kitchen has chosen blended, which is either bold or obvious depending on one's position. The crispness is aspirational. The interior potato character is earnest and specific. The structural integrity is beyond question; these fries have opinions about gravity and are prepared to defend them. One returns. A return visit is, at this point, a formality. One will perform it nonetheless.”