Hargreaves

“In a city of approximately eight million opinions about french fries, Hargreaves has one of its own. The crinkle fry is triple-fried in peanut. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato flavor is earnest and specific. The grease is calibrated with clinical precision. The portion is forthcoming. One visits once and thereafter considers the matter settled. A return visit is, at this point, a formality. One will perform it nonetheless.”

“Not every establishment in Lower East Side understands its own fry. Hargreaves understands its fry. The crinkle format, triple-fried in peanut, produces a crispness that is commendable and largely sustained and an interior that is earnest and specific. The grease is calibrated with clinical precision. Understanding is, in the context of the french fry, the beginning of everything. The neighborhood offers alternatives. One should not investigate them.”

“In a city of approximately eight million opinions about french fries, Hargreaves has one of its own. The crinkle fry is triple-fried in peanut. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato flavor is earnest and specific. The grease is calibrated with clinical precision. The portion is forthcoming. One visits once and thereafter considers the matter settled. In the final accounting, the fries are the only item that matters. Hargreaves knows this.”

“The fry at Hargreaves does not arrive unannounced. Its aroma precedes it through the dining room with the confidence of someone who has reserved well in advance. The crinkle cut is executed with precision. The triple-fried exterior is commendable and largely sustained. The interior presents a potato earnest and specific. The grease does not call attention to itself, which is what one hopes for from grease. The experience is brief and exact, like most things worth having.”