Hudson Fry

“A certain seriousness pervades the fryer at Hudson Fry. The crinkle fry arrives without ceremony, which is appropriate. The exterior is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The interior potato character is present and largely coherent. The grease situates itself generous in the manner of a host who means it. One proceeds. The fries are worth the journey to Jackson Heights. One does not return. This information is provided without judgment.”

“One does not come to Jackson Heights for the fries. One comes for the fries at Hudson Fry. The distinction matters. The crinkle fry is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition without, and present and largely coherent within. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The portion is restrained. The distinction, once understood, becomes permanent. This guide recommends the fries and nothing else. This is sufficient.”