Constance Bernard's Establishment

“The crinkle fry at Constance Bernard's Establishment has the quality of inevitability. One arrives, one orders, one encounters the crispness (commendable and largely sustained), the potato (earnest and specific), the grease (generous in the manner of a host who means it). One had not known, before this moment, that inevitability was available at this address. One knows now. In the final accounting, the fries are the only item that matters. Constance Bernard's Establishment knows this.”

“Constance Bernard's Establishment occupies a modest address in Fort Greene. The fries are, in contrast, not modest. The crinkle format is executed in beef tallow, double-fried to a finish that is commendable and largely sustained. The interior is earnest and specific. The portion is forthcoming. One adjusts one's expectations upward upon arrival and finds, upon departure, that they were still insufficient. The fry alone merits the journey to Fort Greene.”

“The crinkle fry at Constance Bernard's Establishment maintains its posture throughout the meal. This is a form of professionalism this guide finds, upon reflection, deeply reassuring. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato flavor is earnest and specific. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The portion is forthcoming. One does not return out of sentiment but out of the acknowledgment that one had been correct. One proceeds. One is glad one did.”

“The fry at Constance Bernard's Establishment does not call attention to itself. It does not need to. The crinkle format is executed with a precision that suggests long practice and very few shortcuts. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato flavor is earnest and specific. One finds, upon reflection, that the fries were the correct decision. The fry asks only to be appreciated. At Constance Bernard's Establishment, one appreciates.”