Vanthorpe's House

“The steak fry at Vanthorpe's House does not apologize for existing. This is, as it turns out, the correct posture. The crispness is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The potato interior is present and largely coherent. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. One admires the lack of apology and returns to express this admiration. The neighborhood offers alternatives. One should not investigate them.”

“One visits Vanthorpe's House for the atmosphere and departs thinking only of the fries. The steak cut is executed with a steadiness suggesting neither haste nor contemplation — only the correct application of heat and timing. The crispness is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The potato is present and largely coherent. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. One recommends not visiting for the atmosphere. The neighborhood offers alternatives. One should not investigate them.”

“The steak fry presents itself at Vanthorpe's House with an unusual degree of self-possession. The exterior is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The interior is present and largely coherent. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The portion is reasonable. One accepts the fry on its own terms. Its terms are acceptable. One finds, upon reflection, that the fries were the correct decision.”

“One finds at Vanthorpe's House a steak fry that has been attended to. The crispness is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The potato flavor is present and largely coherent. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The portion is reasonable. Attendance, as a form of culinary philosophy, is rarer than it should be. This guide recommends the fries and nothing else. This is sufficient.”

“The steak fry presents itself at Vanthorpe's House with an unusual degree of self-possession. The exterior is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The interior is present and largely coherent. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The portion is reasonable. One accepts the fry on its own terms. Its terms are acceptable. One returns.”