Robert Devereaux's Table

“The double-fry technique employed at Robert Devereaux's Table produces a shoestring fry of absent, in the practical sense exterior and present as a rumor interior. The lard is evident and appropriate. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The portion is restrained. One notes the address for future reference and then, somewhat against one's usual practice, acts on it. The neighborhood offers alternatives. One should not investigate them.”

“One does not seek drama at Robert Devereaux's Table. One seeks fries. The shoestring format is a declaration of intent, and the kitchen largely honors it. The crispness is absent, in the practical sense. The potato flavor emerges mid-experience, which is somewhat later than ideal but not without its own logic. The grease content is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The napkin earns its keep. This guide recommends visiting without expectations and departing, perhaps, with adjusted ones. One does not return. This information is provided without judgment.”

“A certain seriousness pervades the fryer at Robert Devereaux's Table. The shoestring fry arrives without ceremony, which is appropriate. The exterior is absent, in the practical sense. The interior potato character is present as a rumor. The grease situates itself conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. One proceeds. The fries are worth the journey to Red Hook. One returns.”

“The shoestring fry presents itself at Robert Devereaux's Table with an unusual degree of self-possession. The exterior is absent, in the practical sense. The interior is present as a rumor. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The portion is restrained. One accepts the fry on its own terms. Its terms are acceptable. One proceeds. One is glad one did.”