Au Fryer

“Not every establishment in Carroll Gardens understands its own fry. Au Fryer understands its fry. The steak format, single-fried in vegetable, produces a crispness that is aspirational and an interior that is earnest and specific. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. Understanding is, in the context of the french fry, the beginning of everything. The address is committed to memory.”

“On a Tuesday evening in Carroll Gardens, one discovers that Au Fryer has opinions about potatoes. The steak format is a declaration. The single-fried exterior is aspirational. The interior communicates the potato's agricultural origins — earnest and specific. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. These opinions are, on balance, correct. The experience is brief and exact, like most things worth having.”

“One does not arrive at Au Fryer lightly. The steak fry presents itself with the quiet confidence of a thing that knows its own worth. The single-fry technique is evident in the exterior: aspirational. The interior potato character is earnest and specific. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. This guide notes the address. A return visit is, at this point, a formality. One will perform it nonetheless.”

“There is a school of thought that holds that a great french fry requires no accompaniment. Au Fryer belongs to this school. The steak fry, single-fried in vegetable, makes its argument in silence. The crispness is aspirational. The potato flavor is earnest and specific. The argument is persuasive. One visits twice. The second visit confirms the first.”