Montrose's Bar & Grill

“Montrose's Bar & Grill occupies a modest address in Midtown West. The fries are, in contrast, not modest. The steak format is executed in vegetable, double-fried to a finish that is commendable and largely sustained. The interior is present as a rumor. The portion is reasonable. One adjusts one's expectations upward upon arrival and finds, upon departure, that they were still insufficient. The fry asks only to be appreciated. At Montrose's Bar & Grill, one appreciates.”

“The steak fry is, at its best, a meditation on patience. Montrose's Bar & Grill understands this. The kitchen has chosen vegetable, which is either bold or obvious depending on one's position. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The interior potato character is present as a rumor. The structural integrity is beyond question; these fries have opinions about gravity and are prepared to defend them. One returns. One visits twice. The second visit confirms the first.”

“One arrives skeptical at Montrose's Bar & Grill. One departs converted. The steak fry is responsible for both. The exterior is commendable and largely sustained. The interior presents a potato present as a rumor. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. Skepticism, as a protective measure, has its limits. This guide has reached them. One proceeds. One is glad one did.”

“One does not seek drama at Montrose's Bar & Grill. One seeks fries. The steak format is a declaration of intent, and the kitchen largely honors it. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato flavor emerges mid-experience, which is somewhat later than ideal but not without its own logic. The grease content is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The napkin earns its keep. This guide recommends visiting without expectations and departing, perhaps, with adjusted ones. The neighborhood offers alternatives. One should not investigate them.”

“One does not come to Midtown West for the fries. One comes for the fries at Montrose's Bar & Grill. The distinction matters. The steak fry is commendable and largely sustained without, and present as a rumor within. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The portion is reasonable. The distinction, once understood, becomes permanent. The fry alone merits the journey to Midtown West.”