The Supreme Fryer

“One finds at The Supreme Fryer a shoestring fry that has been attended to. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato flavor is biographical in its specificity. The grease is calibrated with clinical precision. The portion is excessive in a way this guide finds, on reflection, appropriate. Attendance, as a form of culinary philosophy, is rarer than it should be. Best ordered without accompaniment. The fry requires no defense counsel.”

“At The Supreme Fryer, the shoestring fry is taken seriously in a way that does not announce itself. The double-fry method produces an exterior that is commendable and largely sustained. The interior is biographical in its specificity. The grease is calibrated with clinical precision. The seriousness, once recognized, is irreversible. In the final accounting, the fries are the only item that matters. The Supreme Fryer knows this.”

“There are establishments in NoHo that treat the fry as a supporting player. The Supreme Fryer is not among them. The shoestring format is ambitious. The lard is appropriate. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato announces itself biographical in its specificity. The portion is excessive in a way this guide finds, on reflection, appropriate. This guide takes no position on portion size as a moral category. The fries are recommended. One visits twice. The second visit confirms the first.”