Crosstown Crisp

“Crosstown Crisp occupies a modest address in Forest Hills. The fries are, in contrast, not modest. The curly format is executed in peanut, single-fried to a finish that is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The interior is present as a rumor. The portion is restrained. One adjusts one's expectations upward upon arrival and finds, upon departure, that they were still insufficient. One visits twice. The second visit confirms the first.”

“The curly fry at Crosstown Crisp requires no introduction, though it offers one regardless: a uniformity of golden color suggesting a fryer calibrated with the attention usually reserved for precision instruments. The exterior is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The interior communicates its agricultural origins — one tastes the potato, specific and unhurried, present as a rumor. peanut has been employed with discretion. One returns. The experience is brief and exact, like most things worth having.”