Bistro Pomme

“One does not come to Prospect Heights for the fries. One comes for the fries at Bistro Pomme. The distinction matters. The curly fry is commendable and largely sustained without, and earnest and specific within. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The portion is forthcoming. The distinction, once understood, becomes permanent. Best ordered without accompaniment. The fry requires no defense counsel.”

“The curly fry at Bistro Pomme is not remarkable for being exceptional. It is remarkable for being exactly what it claims to be. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato is earnest and specific. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. Exactitude, in this city, is underrated. This guide recommends the fries and nothing else. This is sufficient.”

“The curly fry at Bistro Pomme maintains its posture throughout the meal. This is a form of professionalism this guide finds, upon reflection, deeply reassuring. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato flavor is earnest and specific. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The portion is forthcoming. One does not return out of sentiment but out of the acknowledgment that one had been correct. One visits twice. The second visit confirms the first.”

“A certain seriousness pervades the fryer at Bistro Pomme. The curly fry arrives without ceremony, which is appropriate. The exterior is commendable and largely sustained. The interior potato character is earnest and specific. The grease situates itself conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. One proceeds. The fries are worth the journey to Prospect Heights. The experience is brief and exact, like most things worth having.”