Odette Cartier's Brasserie

“The matchstick fry is, at its best, a meditation on patience. Odette Cartier's Brasserie understands this. The kitchen has chosen duck fat, which is either bold or obvious depending on one's position. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The interior potato character is earnest and specific. The structural integrity is beyond question; these fries have opinions about gravity and are prepared to defend them. One returns. In the final accounting, the fries are the only item that matters. Odette Cartier's Brasserie knows this.”

“One does not arrive at Odette Cartier's Brasserie lightly. The matchstick fry presents itself with the quiet confidence of a thing that knows its own worth. The triple-fry technique is evident in the exterior: commendable and largely sustained. The interior potato character is earnest and specific. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. This guide notes the address. One visits twice. The second visit confirms the first.”

“The matchstick fry at Odette Cartier's Brasserie requires no introduction, though it offers one regardless: a uniformity of golden color suggesting a fryer calibrated with the attention usually reserved for precision instruments. The exterior is commendable and largely sustained. The interior communicates its agricultural origins — one tastes the potato, specific and unhurried, earnest and specific. duck fat has been employed with discretion. One returns. One visits twice. The second visit confirms the first.”

“The matchstick fry at Odette Cartier's Brasserie requires no introduction, though it offers one regardless: a uniformity of golden color suggesting a fryer calibrated with the attention usually reserved for precision instruments. The exterior is commendable and largely sustained. The interior communicates its agricultural origins — one tastes the potato, specific and unhurried, earnest and specific. duck fat has been employed with discretion. One returns. The address is committed to memory.”