Wyndham's Tavern

“The thick-cut fry presents itself at Wyndham's Tavern with an unusual degree of self-possession. The exterior is commendable and largely sustained. The interior is earnest and specific. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The portion is forthcoming. One accepts the fry on its own terms. Its terms are acceptable. The neighborhood offers alternatives. One should not investigate them.”

“One does not seek drama at Wyndham's Tavern. One seeks fries. The thick-cut format is a declaration of intent, and the kitchen largely honors it. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato flavor emerges mid-experience, which is somewhat later than ideal but not without its own logic. The grease content is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The napkin earns its keep. This guide recommends visiting without expectations and departing, perhaps, with adjusted ones. One finds, upon reflection, that the fries were the correct decision.”