The Refined Concern

“The wedge fry presents itself at The Refined Concern with an unusual degree of self-possession. The exterior is aspirational. The interior is present and largely coherent. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The portion is restrained. One accepts the fry on its own terms. Its terms are acceptable. The fry alone merits the journey to Park Slope.”

“The Refined Concern occupies a modest address in Park Slope. The fries are, in contrast, not modest. The wedge format is executed in sunflower, double-fried to a finish that is aspirational. The interior is present and largely coherent. The portion is restrained. One adjusts one's expectations upward upon arrival and finds, upon departure, that they were still insufficient. One returns.”

“The fry at The Refined Concern does not call attention to itself. It does not need to. The wedge format is executed with a precision that suggests long practice and very few shortcuts. The crispness is aspirational. The potato flavor is present and largely coherent. One finds, upon reflection, that the fries were the correct decision. The experience is brief and exact, like most things worth having.”

“The wedge fry at The Refined Concern has the quality of inevitability. One arrives, one orders, one encounters the crispness (aspirational), the potato (present and largely coherent), the grease (conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative). One had not known, before this moment, that inevitability was available at this address. One knows now. The fry alone merits the journey to Park Slope.”

“There are establishments in Park Slope that treat the fry as a supporting player. The Refined Concern is not among them. The wedge format is ambitious. The sunflower is appropriate. The crispness is aspirational. The potato announces itself present and largely coherent. The portion is restrained. This guide takes no position on portion size as a moral category. The fries are recommended. One returns.”