Au Fry

“On a Tuesday evening in West Village, one discovers that Au Fry has opinions about potatoes. The thick-cut format is a declaration. The double-fried exterior is commendable and largely sustained. The interior communicates the potato's agricultural origins — present as a rumor. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. These opinions are, on balance, correct. One does not return. This information is provided without judgment.”

“The thick-cut fry at Au Fry does not overstay its welcome. The exterior is commendable and largely sustained, the interior is present as a rumor, and the grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The portion is restrained. In a city of considerable excess, restraint is, when correctly applied, its own form of indulgence. Au Fry applies it correctly. The fry alone merits the journey to West Village.”

“The fry at Au Fry does not arrive unannounced. Its aroma precedes it through the dining room with the confidence of someone who has reserved well in advance. The thick-cut cut is executed with precision. The double-fried exterior is commendable and largely sustained. The interior presents a potato present as a rumor. The grease does not call attention to itself, which is what one hopes for from grease. The experience is brief and exact, like most things worth having.”

“At Au Fry, the thick-cut fry is taken seriously in a way that does not announce itself. The double-fry method produces an exterior that is commendable and largely sustained. The interior is present as a rumor. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The seriousness, once recognized, is irreversible. One returns.”