Dupont's Concern

“A certain seriousness pervades the fryer at Dupont's Concern. The matchstick fry arrives without ceremony, which is appropriate. The exterior is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The interior potato character is earnest and specific. The grease situates itself conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. One proceeds. The fries are worth the journey to Long Island City. One finds, upon reflection, that the fries were the correct decision.”

“The matchstick fry at Dupont's Concern does not overstay its welcome. The exterior is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition, the interior is earnest and specific, and the grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The portion is forthcoming. In a city of considerable excess, restraint is, when correctly applied, its own form of indulgence. Dupont's Concern applies it correctly. The experience is brief and exact, like most things worth having.”

“One does not seek drama at Dupont's Concern. One seeks fries. The matchstick format is a declaration of intent, and the kitchen largely honors it. The crispness is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The potato flavor emerges mid-experience, which is somewhat later than ideal but not without its own logic. The grease content is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The napkin earns its keep. This guide recommends visiting without expectations and departing, perhaps, with adjusted ones. One finds, upon reflection, that the fries were the correct decision.”

“The matchstick fry presents itself at Dupont's Concern with an unusual degree of self-possession. The exterior is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The interior is earnest and specific. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The portion is forthcoming. One accepts the fry on its own terms. Its terms are acceptable. One finds, upon reflection, that the fries were the correct decision.”