Arthur Blackwood's Kitchen

“The fry at Arthur Blackwood's Kitchen does not arrive unannounced. Its aroma precedes it through the dining room with the confidence of someone who has reserved well in advance. The steak cut is executed with precision. The single-fried exterior is commendable and largely sustained. The interior presents a potato earnest and specific. The grease does not call attention to itself, which is what one hopes for from grease. One does not return. This information is provided without judgment.”

“On a Tuesday evening in Bushwick, one discovers that Arthur Blackwood's Kitchen has opinions about potatoes. The steak format is a declaration. The single-fried exterior is commendable and largely sustained. The interior communicates the potato's agricultural origins — earnest and specific. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. These opinions are, on balance, correct. The experience is brief and exact, like most things worth having.”

“The steak fry at Arthur Blackwood's Kitchen represents a kitchen with convictions. The exterior is commendable and largely sustained. The interior is earnest and specific. The duck fat does not call attention to itself. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. Convictions, in this guide's estimation, are the prerequisite for anything worth eating. Best ordered without accompaniment. The fry requires no defense counsel.”

“The steak fry at Arthur Blackwood's Kitchen is not remarkable for being exceptional. It is remarkable for being exactly what it claims to be. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato is earnest and specific. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. Exactitude, in this city, is underrated. The experience is brief and exact, like most things worth having.”