Au Pomme

“One arrives skeptical at Au Pomme. One departs converted. The matchstick fry is responsible for both. The exterior is aspirational. The interior presents a potato present as a rumor. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. Skepticism, as a protective measure, has its limits. This guide has reached them. One does not return. This information is provided without judgment.”

“The matchstick fry at Au Pomme does not overstay its welcome. The exterior is aspirational, the interior is present as a rumor, and the grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The portion is restrained. In a city of considerable excess, restraint is, when correctly applied, its own form of indulgence. Au Pomme applies it correctly. One finds, upon reflection, that the fries were the correct decision.”

“Not every establishment in NoHo understands its own fry. Au Pomme understands its fry. The matchstick format, double-fried in sunflower, produces a crispness that is aspirational and an interior that is present as a rumor. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. Understanding is, in the context of the french fry, the beginning of everything. One visits twice. The second visit confirms the first.”

“One arrives skeptical at Au Pomme. One departs converted. The matchstick fry is responsible for both. The exterior is aspirational. The interior presents a potato present as a rumor. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. Skepticism, as a protective measure, has its limits. This guide has reached them. A return visit is, at this point, a formality. One will perform it nonetheless.”

“The matchstick fry is, at its best, a meditation on patience. Au Pomme understands this. The kitchen has chosen sunflower, which is either bold or obvious depending on one's position. The crispness is aspirational. The interior potato character is present as a rumor. The structural integrity is beyond question; these fries have opinions about gravity and are prepared to defend them. One returns. One visits twice. The second visit confirms the first.”