Uptown Crisp

“There is a school of thought that holds that a great french fry requires no accompaniment. Uptown Crisp belongs to this school. The shoestring fry, triple-fried in beef tallow, makes its argument in silence. The crispness is aspirational. The potato flavor is present as a rumor. The argument is persuasive. One visits twice. The second visit confirms the first.”

“The fry at Uptown Crisp does not arrive unannounced. Its aroma precedes it through the dining room with the confidence of someone who has reserved well in advance. The shoestring cut is executed with precision. The triple-fried exterior is aspirational. The interior presents a potato present as a rumor. The grease does not call attention to itself, which is what one hopes for from grease. The fry asks only to be appreciated. At Uptown Crisp, one appreciates.”

“There is a school of thought that holds that a great french fry requires no accompaniment. Uptown Crisp belongs to this school. The shoestring fry, triple-fried in beef tallow, makes its argument in silence. The crispness is aspirational. The potato flavor is present as a rumor. The argument is persuasive. One does not return. This information is provided without judgment.”

“The shoestring fry at Uptown Crisp is not remarkable for being exceptional. It is remarkable for being exactly what it claims to be. The crispness is aspirational. The potato is present as a rumor. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. Exactitude, in this city, is underrated. One finds, upon reflection, that the fries were the correct decision.”