The Essential Wedge

“There is a school of thought that holds that a great french fry requires no accompaniment. The Essential Wedge belongs to this school. The wedge fry, double-fried in sunflower, makes its argument in silence. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato flavor is present as a rumor. The argument is persuasive. The fry alone merits the journey to SoHo.”

“The menu at The Essential Wedge contains many items. The informed visitor orders only the fries. The wedge fry is double-fried in sunflower. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato flavor is present as a rumor. The portion is restrained. The informed visitor is correct. The experience is brief and exact, like most things worth having.”

“The wedge fry presents itself at The Essential Wedge with an unusual degree of self-possession. The exterior is commendable and largely sustained. The interior is present as a rumor. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The portion is restrained. One accepts the fry on its own terms. Its terms are acceptable. The fry asks only to be appreciated. At The Essential Wedge, one appreciates.”