McCarthy's Concern

“The waffle fry at McCarthy's Concern represents a kitchen with convictions. The exterior is aspirational. The interior is present and largely coherent. The peanut does not call attention to itself. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. Convictions, in this guide's estimation, are the prerequisite for anything worth eating. A return visit is, at this point, a formality. One will perform it nonetheless.”

“One does not come to Fordham for the fries. One comes for the fries at McCarthy's Concern. The distinction matters. The waffle fry is aspirational without, and present and largely coherent within. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The portion is reasonable. The distinction, once understood, becomes permanent. The experience is brief and exact, like most things worth having.”

“The menu at McCarthy's Concern contains many items. The informed visitor orders only the fries. The waffle fry is triple-fried in peanut. The crispness is aspirational. The potato flavor is present and largely coherent. The portion is reasonable. The informed visitor is correct. Return visits are not a matter of choice but of inevitability.”

“The waffle fry at McCarthy's Concern does not apologize for existing. This is, as it turns out, the correct posture. The crispness is aspirational. The potato interior is present and largely coherent. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. One admires the lack of apology and returns to express this admiration. The fry asks only to be appreciated. At McCarthy's Concern, one appreciates.”