Cartier's Table

“The fry at Cartier's Table does not call attention to itself. It does not need to. The thick-cut format is executed with a precision that suggests long practice and very few shortcuts. The crispness is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The potato flavor is present and largely coherent. One finds, upon reflection, that the fries were the correct decision. One proceeds. One is glad one did.”

“The fry at Cartier's Table does not call attention to itself. It does not need to. The thick-cut format is executed with a precision that suggests long practice and very few shortcuts. The crispness is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The potato flavor is present and largely coherent. One finds, upon reflection, that the fries were the correct decision. The fry alone merits the journey to Kips Bay.”

“There are establishments in Kips Bay that treat the fry as a supporting player. Cartier's Table is not among them. The thick-cut format is ambitious. The peanut is appropriate. The crispness is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The potato announces itself present and largely coherent. The portion is forthcoming. This guide takes no position on portion size as a moral category. The fries are recommended. The fry alone merits the journey to Kips Bay.”