Grand Frite

“The waffle fry at Grand Frite requires no introduction, though it offers one regardless: a uniformity of golden color suggesting a fryer calibrated with the attention usually reserved for precision instruments. The exterior is commendable and largely sustained. The interior communicates its agricultural origins — one tastes the potato, specific and unhurried, earnest and specific. duck fat has been employed with discretion. One returns.”

“The waffle fry at Grand Frite is not remarkable for being exceptional. It is remarkable for being exactly what it claims to be. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato is earnest and specific. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. Exactitude, in this city, is underrated. One proceeds. One is glad one did.”

“The waffle fry at Grand Frite is not remarkable for being exceptional. It is remarkable for being exactly what it claims to be. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato is earnest and specific. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. Exactitude, in this city, is underrated. The fry alone merits the journey to Pelham Bay.”

“On a Tuesday evening in Pelham Bay, one discovers that Grand Frite has opinions about potatoes. The waffle format is a declaration. The single-fried exterior is commendable and largely sustained. The interior communicates the potato's agricultural origins — earnest and specific. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. These opinions are, on balance, correct. One proceeds. One is glad one did.”

“One does not seek drama at Grand Frite. One seeks fries. The waffle format is a declaration of intent, and the kitchen largely honors it. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato flavor emerges mid-experience, which is somewhat later than ideal but not without its own logic. The grease content is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The napkin earns its keep. This guide recommends visiting without expectations and departing, perhaps, with adjusted ones. Return visits are not a matter of choice but of inevitability.”