Georges Sullivan's Table

“One finds at Georges Sullivan's Table a curly fry that has been attended to. The crispness is architecturally significant. The potato flavor is biographical in its specificity. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The portion is forthcoming. Attendance, as a form of culinary philosophy, is rarer than it should be. One returns.”

“The curly fry at Georges Sullivan's Table has the quality of inevitability. One arrives, one orders, one encounters the crispness (architecturally significant), the potato (biographical in its specificity), the grease (conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative). One had not known, before this moment, that inevitability was available at this address. One knows now. Return visits are not a matter of choice but of inevitability.”