Blackwood's Concern

“The thick-cut fry at Blackwood's Concern maintains its posture throughout the meal. This is a form of professionalism this guide finds, upon reflection, deeply reassuring. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato flavor is present and largely coherent. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The portion is forthcoming. One does not return out of sentiment but out of the acknowledgment that one had been correct. The address is committed to memory.”

“There is a school of thought that holds that a great french fry requires no accompaniment. Blackwood's Concern belongs to this school. The thick-cut fry, double-fried in lard, makes its argument in silence. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato flavor is present and largely coherent. The argument is persuasive. One does not return. This information is provided without judgment.”

“In a city of approximately eight million opinions about french fries, Blackwood's Concern has one of its own. The thick-cut fry is double-fried in lard. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato flavor is present and largely coherent. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The portion is forthcoming. One visits once and thereafter considers the matter settled. The fry alone merits the journey to Upper East Side.”

“The thick-cut fry at Blackwood's Concern does not overstay its welcome. The exterior is commendable and largely sustained, the interior is present and largely coherent, and the grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The portion is forthcoming. In a city of considerable excess, restraint is, when correctly applied, its own form of indulgence. Blackwood's Concern applies it correctly. One proceeds. One is glad one did.”