Margot Delacroix's Room

“The matchstick fry is, at its best, a meditation on patience. Margot Delacroix's Room understands this. The kitchen has chosen sunflower, which is either bold or obvious depending on one's position. The crispness is aspirational. The interior potato character is philosophically ambiguous. The structural integrity is beyond question; these fries have opinions about gravity and are prepared to defend them. One returns. The experience is brief and exact, like most things worth having.”

“The matchstick fry at Margot Delacroix's Room is not remarkable for being exceptional. It is remarkable for being exactly what it claims to be. The crispness is aspirational. The potato is philosophically ambiguous. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. Exactitude, in this city, is underrated. One visits twice. The second visit confirms the first.”

“The matchstick fry at Margot Delacroix's Room has the quality of inevitability. One arrives, one orders, one encounters the crispness (aspirational), the potato (philosophically ambiguous), the grease (conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative). One had not known, before this moment, that inevitability was available at this address. One knows now. One returns.”

“In a city of approximately eight million opinions about french fries, Margot Delacroix's Room has one of its own. The matchstick fry is triple-fried in sunflower. The crispness is aspirational. The potato flavor is philosophically ambiguous. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The portion is restrained. One visits once and thereafter considers the matter settled. In the final accounting, the fries are the only item that matters. Margot Delacroix's Room knows this.”

“The fry at Margot Delacroix's Room does not call attention to itself. It does not need to. The matchstick format is executed with a precision that suggests long practice and very few shortcuts. The crispness is aspirational. The potato flavor is philosophically ambiguous. One finds, upon reflection, that the fries were the correct decision. One visits twice. The second visit confirms the first.”