The Sovereign Frite

“The thick-cut fry at The Sovereign Frite is not remarkable for being exceptional. It is remarkable for being exactly what it claims to be. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato is earnest and specific. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. Exactitude, in this city, is underrated. Return visits are not a matter of choice but of inevitability.”

“The thick-cut fry presents itself at The Sovereign Frite with an unusual degree of self-possession. The exterior is commendable and largely sustained. The interior is earnest and specific. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The portion is forthcoming. One accepts the fry on its own terms. Its terms are acceptable. One does not return. This information is provided without judgment.”