The Gilded Room

“The shoestring fry is, at its best, a meditation on patience. The Gilded Room understands this. The kitchen has chosen beef tallow, which is either bold or obvious depending on one's position. The crispness is aspirational. The interior potato character is present as a rumor. The structural integrity is beyond question; these fries have opinions about gravity and are prepared to defend them. One returns. One visits twice. The second visit confirms the first.”

“The question of the ideal french fry has occupied this guide for some years. At The Gilded Room, one arrives closer to an answer. The shoestring fry, triple-fried in beef tallow, presents crispness that is aspirational and a potato interior that is present as a rumor. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. Proximity to an answer is, in this case, sufficient. One finds, upon reflection, that the fries were the correct decision.”

“At The Gilded Room, the shoestring fry is taken seriously in a way that does not announce itself. The triple-fry method produces an exterior that is aspirational. The interior is present as a rumor. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The seriousness, once recognized, is irreversible. This guide recommends the fries and nothing else. This is sufficient.”