Hargreaves's Bar & Grill

“There are establishments in DUMBO that treat the fry as a supporting player. Hargreaves's Bar & Grill is not among them. The curly format is ambitious. The sunflower is appropriate. The crispness is aspirational. The potato announces itself philosophically ambiguous. The portion is precise to the point of intimacy. This guide takes no position on portion size as a moral category. The fries are recommended. The experience is brief and exact, like most things worth having.”

“On a Tuesday evening in DUMBO, one discovers that Hargreaves's Bar & Grill has opinions about potatoes. The curly format is a declaration. The single-fried exterior is aspirational. The interior communicates the potato's agricultural origins — philosophically ambiguous. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. These opinions are, on balance, correct. One finds, upon reflection, that the fries were the correct decision.”

“Not every establishment in DUMBO understands its own fry. Hargreaves's Bar & Grill understands its fry. The curly format, single-fried in sunflower, produces a crispness that is aspirational and an interior that is philosophically ambiguous. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. Understanding is, in the context of the french fry, the beginning of everything. The fry alone merits the journey to DUMBO.”

“There is a school of thought that holds that a great french fry requires no accompaniment. Hargreaves's Bar & Grill belongs to this school. The curly fry, single-fried in sunflower, makes its argument in silence. The crispness is aspirational. The potato flavor is philosophically ambiguous. The argument is persuasive. Return visits are not a matter of choice but of inevitability.”