The Golden Stick

“The fry at The Golden Stick does not arrive unannounced. Its aroma precedes it through the dining room with the confidence of someone who has reserved well in advance. The matchstick cut is executed with precision. The triple-fried exterior is aspirational. The interior presents a potato present as a rumor. The grease does not call attention to itself, which is what one hopes for from grease. One visits twice. The second visit confirms the first.”

“The triple-fry technique employed at The Golden Stick produces a matchstick fry of aspirational exterior and present as a rumor interior. The peanut is evident and appropriate. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The portion is restrained. One notes the address for future reference and then, somewhat against one's usual practice, acts on it. The fry asks only to be appreciated. At The Golden Stick, one appreciates.”

“One visits The Golden Stick for the atmosphere and departs thinking only of the fries. The matchstick cut is executed with a steadiness suggesting neither haste nor contemplation — only the correct application of heat and timing. The crispness is aspirational. The potato is present as a rumor. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. One recommends not visiting for the atmosphere. Return visits are not a matter of choice but of inevitability.”

“One does not come to Lower East Side for the fries. One comes for the fries at The Golden Stick. The distinction matters. The matchstick fry is aspirational without, and present as a rumor within. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The portion is restrained. The distinction, once understood, becomes permanent. Return visits are not a matter of choice but of inevitability.”