Vivienne Klein's Establishment

“The matchstick fry at Vivienne Klein's Establishment does not overstay its welcome. The exterior is commendable and largely sustained, the interior is present and largely coherent, and the grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The portion is forthcoming. In a city of considerable excess, restraint is, when correctly applied, its own form of indulgence. Vivienne Klein's Establishment applies it correctly. The address is committed to memory.”

“The matchstick fry at Vivienne Klein's Establishment maintains its posture throughout the meal. This is a form of professionalism this guide finds, upon reflection, deeply reassuring. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato flavor is present and largely coherent. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The portion is forthcoming. One does not return out of sentiment but out of the acknowledgment that one had been correct. In the final accounting, the fries are the only item that matters. Vivienne Klein's Establishment knows this.”

“The matchstick fry presents itself at Vivienne Klein's Establishment with an unusual degree of self-possession. The exterior is commendable and largely sustained. The interior is present and largely coherent. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The portion is forthcoming. One accepts the fry on its own terms. Its terms are acceptable. The neighborhood offers alternatives. One should not investigate them.”