The Gilded Tavern

“One finds at The Gilded Tavern a steak fry that has been attended to. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato flavor is earnest and specific. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The portion is forthcoming. Attendance, as a form of culinary philosophy, is rarer than it should be. One returns.”

“One does not arrive at The Gilded Tavern lightly. The steak fry presents itself with the quiet confidence of a thing that knows its own worth. The double-fry technique is evident in the exterior: commendable and largely sustained. The interior potato character is earnest and specific. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. This guide notes the address. Best ordered without accompaniment. The fry requires no defense counsel.”

“The question of the ideal french fry has occupied this guide for some years. At The Gilded Tavern, one arrives closer to an answer. The steak fry, double-fried in canola, presents crispness that is commendable and largely sustained and a potato interior that is earnest and specific. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. Proximity to an answer is, in this case, sufficient. This guide recommends the fries and nothing else. This is sufficient.”