Montrose's Table

“The triple-fry technique employed at Montrose's Table produces a waffle fry of aspirational exterior and present as a rumor interior. The lard is evident and appropriate. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The portion is restrained. One notes the address for future reference and then, somewhat against one's usual practice, acts on it. The fry asks only to be appreciated. At Montrose's Table, one appreciates.”

“There are establishments in Long Island City that treat the fry as a supporting player. Montrose's Table is not among them. The waffle format is ambitious. The lard is appropriate. The crispness is aspirational. The potato announces itself present as a rumor. The portion is restrained. This guide takes no position on portion size as a moral category. The fries are recommended. The neighborhood offers alternatives. One should not investigate them.”