Chez Spud

“The crinkle fry at Chez Spud requires no introduction, though it offers one regardless: a uniformity of golden color suggesting a fryer calibrated with the attention usually reserved for precision instruments. The exterior is commendable and largely sustained. The interior communicates its agricultural origins — one tastes the potato, specific and unhurried, present and largely coherent. blended has been employed with discretion. One returns. Best ordered without accompaniment. The fry requires no defense counsel.”

“There are establishments in Harlem that treat the fry as a supporting player. Chez Spud is not among them. The crinkle format is ambitious. The blended is appropriate. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato announces itself present and largely coherent. The portion is restrained. This guide takes no position on portion size as a moral category. The fries are recommended. The address is committed to memory.”

“The crispness of the crinkle fry at Chez Spud is commendable and largely sustained. This is noted first because it is noted first. The interior potato character is present and largely coherent. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. First impressions, in the case of the french fry, are usually correct. This one is. The experience is brief and exact, like most things worth having.”