The Classic Pomme

“The fry at The Classic Pomme does not arrive unannounced. Its aroma precedes it through the dining room with the confidence of someone who has reserved well in advance. The waffle cut is executed with precision. The triple-fried exterior is architecturally significant. The interior presents a potato earnest and specific. The grease does not call attention to itself, which is what one hopes for from grease. The address is committed to memory.”

“Not every establishment in Inwood understands its own fry. The Classic Pomme understands its fry. The waffle format, triple-fried in lard, produces a crispness that is architecturally significant and an interior that is earnest and specific. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. Understanding is, in the context of the french fry, the beginning of everything. One visits twice. The second visit confirms the first.”