Leopold Kowalski's House

“The matchstick fry at Leopold Kowalski's House is not remarkable for being exceptional. It is remarkable for being exactly what it claims to be. The crispness is aspirational. The potato is present as a rumor. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. Exactitude, in this city, is underrated. The address is committed to memory.”

“The matchstick fry at Leopold Kowalski's House represents a kitchen with convictions. The exterior is aspirational. The interior is present as a rumor. The peanut does not call attention to itself. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. Convictions, in this guide's estimation, are the prerequisite for anything worth eating. One returns.”